Everything You’ll Need
| Tool / Material | Ceramic Tile | Porcelain Tile | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tape Measure | ✔ | ✔ | Measure room dimensions and tile spacing |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | ✔ | Mark center lines and layout guides |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | ✔ | Guide straight cuts and layout lines |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old flooring |
| Spacers | ✔ | ✔ | Ensure consistent grout joint spacing |
| Notched Trowel | ✔ | ✔ | Spread mortar evenly on the subfloor |
| Mixing Paddle & Drill | ✔ | ✔ | Mix mortar and grout to proper consistency |
| Wet Saw or Tile Cutter | ✔ | ✔ | Cut tiles for edges, corners, and obstacles |
| Utility Knife | ✔ | ✔ | Trim underlayment or score backer board |
| Level | ✔ | ✔ | Ensure tiles are even and level as you work |
| Grout Float | ✔ | ✔ | Press grout into joints at the right angle |
| Bucket & Sponge | ✔ | ✔ | Clean tiles and remove grout haze |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | ✔ | Protect knees during long periods on the floor |
| Safety Glasses | ✔ | ✔ | Eye protection during cutting |
| Gloves | ✔ | ✔ | Protect hands from sharp edges and mortar |
| Cement Backer Board (if needed) | ✔ | ✔ | Underlayment to stabilize tiles and resist moisture |
Optional (But Helpful):
| Tool / Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Rubber Mallet | Tap tiles gently into place without cracking |
| Tile Nippers | For small, precise cuts or corners |
| Grout Sealer | Seal grout lines to protect against moisture and stains |
Step 1: Prepare the Space
Remove Baseboards and Old Flooring
Start by removing any baseboards and existing flooring to expose the subfloor. This creates a clean, level surface for your tile installation.
Use a pry bar to carefully detach the baseboards without damaging the walls. If you’re replacing carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into manageable sections and remove all adhesive residue. For old tile, use a hammer and chisel or a floor scraper to lift and remove the tiles and mortar.
Clean the Subfloor Thoroughly
Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to eliminate all dust, dirt, and debris. A clean surface helps the mortar bond properly and prevents imperfections in your finished floor.
Inspect for Damage or Moisture
Check the subfloor for cracks, holes, or uneven areas. Use a level to spot dips or high points.
Cracks or holes: Fill them with a patching compound.
Uneven areas: Use a floor leveling compound to create a flat, stable base.
If you’re working over concrete, test for moisture using a moisture meter. High moisture levels can lead to tile or grout failure, so address any moisture issues before moving forward.
Install Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)
Depending on your subfloor type:
Wood subfloors: Install cement backer board to provide a stable, water-resistant base.
Concrete subfloors: Usually don’t require underlayment, but a crack isolation membrane or waterproofing membrane may be recommended in some cases.
Secure backer board panels according to manufacturer instructions, using the correct screws and leaving appropriate gaps between panels.
Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout
Find the Center of the Room and Mark Guidelines
Begin by locating the exact center of the room. Use a tape measure to find the midpoint of each wall and snap chalk lines across the floor in both directions. Where the lines cross will be your starting point for laying tiles. This helps ensure your tile layout looks balanced and symmetrical.
Choose Your Tile Layout Pattern
For DIY beginners, it’s best to stick with simple patterns:
Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Tiles are aligned square to the walls, creating clean, uniform rows.
Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Tiles are laid at a 45-degree angle to the walls for a more dynamic look — slightly more challenging but still manageable.
Note: Complex designs like herringbone, chevron, or parquet patterns require advanced skill and are not recommended for first-time installers.
Dry-Fit Tiles to Check Alignment
Lay out a few rows of tiles without mortar (a process called dry-fitting). This allows you to:
Check alignment and spacing.
See how the tiles will meet walls, cabinets, or doorways.
Make adjustments to avoid thin tile slivers at room edges (which can look awkward and may crack easily).
Spacing and Grout Lines
Place spacers between the tiles during the dry fit to establish even grout lines. Common spacer sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, depending on the tile size and style.
Calculate Tile Quantity (Add 10–15% for Waste)
Measure the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:
Multiply the total square footage by 1.10 (for simple layouts) or 1.15 (for diagonal or rooms with lots of cuts) to account for cuts, mistakes, and future repairs.
Order that amount of tile to ensure you have enough for the full project.
Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method
For most tile flooring projects—especially larger areas—thinset mortar is the go-to installation method. It provides a strong, lasting bond between the tiles and the subfloor.
Common Methods:
Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This cement-based adhesive is ideal for floor tiles. It handles weight, moisture, and temperature changes well. Most DIYers and professionals use thinset for durability and reliability.Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Suitable only for small DIY spaces or wall tiles in dry areas. It’s easier to work with but not strong enough for most floor installations or wet environments.
Note: If you’re tiling a floor, thinset is almost always the best (and safest) choice.
| Installation Method | Best For | Strength & Durability | DIY Friendliness | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thinset Mortar | Floor tiles, wet areas (bathrooms, kitchens), large spaces | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent) | Moderate | Industry standard for tile flooring. Handles moisture, weight, and movement. |
| Tile Adhesive (Mastic) | Small dry areas, wall tiles | ⭐⭐ (Limited) | Easy | Not recommended for floor tiles or high-moisture areas. Faster application but lower durability. |
Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor
Mix the Mortar
Start by mixing the thinset mortar according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Use a clean bucket and a mixing paddle attached to a drill to achieve a smooth, lump-free consistency. Let the mortar sit (“slake”) for a few minutes, then remix before applying.
Spread the Mortar
Using a notched trowel, spread the mortar evenly over a small section of the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to create consistent ridges. These ridges help the tile bond securely and ensure the right depth for a level installation.
Work in Small Sections
Only cover as much area as you can tile within about 10–15 minutes. This prevents the mortar from drying out before the tiles are set.
Pro Tip:
Back-butter larger tiles (apply a thin layer of mortar to the back of the tile) for maximum adhesion, especially for tiles over 12 inches.
Step 5: Lay the First Tiles
Starting properly will set the tone for the entire project.
Begin at Your Layout Center Point
Using the chalk lines from your layout planning, start at the room’s center or your chosen focal point. This ensures tiles are evenly distributed across the space.
Set the First Tile
Place the first tile into the mortar. Press firmly and slightly twist it to help the mortar bond.
Use Tile Spacers
Insert spacers between each tile to maintain uniform gaps for grout. This will ensure a clean, professional finish.
Check for Level
After placing a few tiles, use a level to confirm the surface is even. Adjust as needed before the mortar sets.
Pro Tip:
Work in small sections so the mortar doesn’t dry out before the tiles are set!
Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit
Accurate cutting is key for a polished, professional-looking finish.
Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to determine the size of the tile piece you need. Mark the cutting line clearly with a pencil or wax pencil.
Choose the Right Tool
For straight cuts, a manual tile cutter works well.
For curved or intricate cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.
Cut in a Safe Area
Always make cuts outdoors or in a well-ventilated space to avoid dust buildup. Wear safety glasses and gloves for protection.
Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to reduce waste and ensure a perfect fit!
Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure
Once the first tiles are set, continue laying the remaining tiles row by row. Work outward from your starting point, placing each tile carefully with spacers to maintain uniform grout lines. Regularly check that tiles are level and adjust as needed to prevent uneven surfaces.
As you progress, avoid walking on newly set tiles to prevent shifting. Work in manageable sections to ensure the mortar doesn’t dry out before tiles are placed.
After all tiles are installed, allow the mortar to cure for at least 24 hours (or as recommended by the manufacturer) before proceeding to grout. Proper curing is essential for a durable and long-lasting tile floor.
Step 8: Apply Grout
Once the mortar has fully cured, it’s time to grout the joints between the tiles:
Mix the Grout
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the grout to a smooth, peanut butter-like consistency.Spread Grout Using a Float
Use a rubber grout float held at a 45° angle to spread the grout across the tile surface. Press firmly to ensure the grout fills all the joints completely.Remove Excess Grout
After filling the joints, hold the float at a steep angle and scrape away excess grout from the tile surfaces.Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, then use a damp sponge to gently wipe the tile surfaces clean. Rinse the sponge frequently and avoid removing grout from the joints.Final Buffing
Once the grout begins to haze on the tile (after another 30–60 minutes), use a dry microfiber cloth to buff the surface and remove any remaining haze.
Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor
Remove Grout Haze
After the grout has dried (usually 24 to 48 hours), a hazy residue will appear on the tile surfaces. Use a damp sponge or specialized grout haze remover to gently clean the tiles. Be careful not to disturb the grout lines.
Apply Grout Sealer
If recommended by the grout manufacturer, apply a grout sealer to protect the grout from moisture, stains, and mold. Use a small applicator brush or a sealer bottle with a roller tip for precision. Allow the sealer to cure fully according to the product instructions.
Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
Once everything is clean and dry, reinstall your baseboards and add any necessary transition strips between different flooring types or rooms. This gives your new tile floor a polished, professional finish.
DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation
While installing tile flooring yourself can save money, it’s not always the right choice for every project. Here’s how to decide if DIY or hiring a pro is best for you.
DIY Pros
Lower upfront cost
Flexibility to work at your own pace
Great for small, simple rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)
DIY Cons
Requires time, precision, and specialized tools
Mistakes can lead to costly repairs
Challenging for complex layouts or large spaces
Professional Installation Pros
Expert precision and long-lasting results
Faster completion, especially for large areas
Includes subfloor preparation, cutting, and cleanup
Warranties often included
Professional Installation Cons
Higher upfront cost
Less control over timeline
Cost Comparison
Here’s what you can typically expect to pay:
| Installation Type | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft |
|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $2 – $8 (materials + rental tools) | $500 – $2,000 |
| Professional Installation | $8 – $25 | $2,000 – $6,250 |
👉 For a full breakdown, check out our Tile Flooring Cost Guide.
Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation
Want to get pro-level results from your DIY tile project? Keep these tips in mind:
Save time by organizing tools and tiles before starting. Lay out tiles and tools within easy reach.
Use a high-quality wet saw for clean, precise cuts — especially for porcelain tiles.
Mix small batches of mortar and grout. This prevents drying out before use.
Check for level frequently with a spirit level as you lay tiles.
Work in small sections. This ensures the mortar doesn’t dry before you place the tiles.
Minimize breakage. Always cut tiles slowly and wear safety glasses.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Tile Flooring
Even experienced DIYers can make these common errors:
Skipping subfloor leveling. An uneven subfloor can cause cracked tiles and uneven lines.
Forgetting spacers. Inconsistent grout lines lead to an unprofessional look.
Walking on tiles before the mortar cures. This can shift tiles and ruin alignment.
Using too much or too little mortar. This can cause poor adhesion or tiles sitting unevenly.
Not cleaning grout haze promptly. Leaving grout haze too long can make it very hard to remove.
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you’ve learned how to install tile flooring step-by-step, you’re well on your way to creating a strong, beautiful surface that can last for decades. But if you’d rather leave the precision work — like leveling, cutting, and grouting — to the pros, we’re here to help.
Our expert flooring installation team can handle every detail for you — from prepping the subfloor to carefully laying and sealing each tile — ensuring a flawless, long-lasting result. We’ll also help you select the right tile style and materials for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and find out if we serve your area!
